Aquaponics Organic Pesticide

Neem oil
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Neem oil

Neem oil is a vegetable oil pressed from the fruits and seeds of the neem (Azadirachta indica), an evergreen tree which is endemic to the Indian subcontinent and has been introduced to many other areas in the tropics. It is the most important of the commercially available products of neem for organic farming and medicines.

Neem oil varies in color; it can be golden yellow, yellowish brown, reddish brown, dark brown, greenish brown, or bright red. It has a rather strong odor that is said to combine the odours of peanut and garlic. It is composed mainly of triglycerides and contains many triterpenoid compounds, which are responsible for the bitter taste. It is hydrophobic in nature; in order to emulsify it in water for application purposes, it must be formulated with appropriate surfactants.

Azadirachtin is the most well known and studied triterpenoid in neem oil. The azadirachtin content of neem oil varies from 300ppm to over 2500ppm depending on the extraction technology and quality of the neem seeds crushed. Neem oil also contains steroids (campesterol, beta-sitosterol,stigmasterol).

Neem fruit

The method of processing is likely to affect the composition of the oil, since the methods used, such as pressing (expelling) or solvent extraction are unlikely to remove exactly the same mix of components in the same proportions. The neem oil yield that can be obtained from neem seed kernels also varies widely in literature from 25% to 45%.

The oil can be obtained through pressing (crushing) of the seed kernel both through cold pressing or through a process incorporating temperature controls. Neem seed oil can also be obtained by solvent extraction of the neem seed, fruit, oil, cake or kernel. A large industry in India extracts the oil remaining in the seed cake using hexane. This solvent-extracted oil is of a lower quality as compared to the cold pressed oil and is mostly used for soap manufacturing. Neem cake is a by-product obtained in the solvent extraction process for neem oil.

Neem leaves and flowers

Neem oil is not used for cooking purposes. In India, it is used for preparing cosmetics (soap, hair products, body hygiene creams, hand creams) and in Ayurvedic, Unani and folklore traditional medicine, in the treatment of a wide range of afflictions. The most frequently reported indications in ancient Ayurvedic writings are skin diseases, inflammations and fevers, and more recentlyrheumatic disorders, insect repellent and insecticide effects.

Traditional Ayurvedic uses of neem include the treatment of acne, fever, leprosy, malaria, ophthalmia and tuberculosis. Various folk remedies for neem include use as an anthelmintic, antifeedant,antiseptic, diuretic, emmenagogue, contraceptive, febrifuge, parasiticide, pediculocide and insecticide. It has been used in traditional medicine for the treatment of tetanus, urticaria, eczema,scrofula and erysipelas. Traditional routes of administration of neem extracts included oral, vaginal and topical use. Neem oil has an extensive history of human use in India and surrounding regions for a variety of therapeutic purposes. Puri (1999) has given an account of traditional uses and therapeutic indications and pharmacological studies of this oil, in his book on neem.

Formulations made of neem oil also find wide usage as a biopesticide for organic farming, as it repels a wide variety of pests including the mealy bug, beet armyworm, aphids, the cabbage worm, thrips, whiteflies, mites, fungus gnats, beetles, moth larvae, mushroom flies, leafminers, caterpillars, locust, nematodes and the Japanese beetle. Neem oil is not known to be harmful to mammals, birds, earthworms or some beneficial insects such as butterflies, honeybees and ladybugs if it is not concentrated directly into their area of habitat or on their food source. It can be used as a household pesticide for ant, bedbug, cockroach, housefly, sand fly, snail, termite and mosquitoes both as repellent and larvicide. Neem oil also controls black spot, powdery mildew,anthracnose and rust fungi.

Neem seed oil has also been found to prevent implantation and may even have an abortifacient effect similar to pennyroyal, juniper berries, wild ginger, myrrh and angelica. The effects were seen as many as ten days after fertilization in rats though it was most effective at no more than three days. (Sinha, et al., 1984); (Lal et al., 1985). In a study on rats, neem oil was given orally eight to ten days after implantation of the fetus on the uterine wall. In all cases, by day 15, the embryos were all completely resorbed by the body. The animals regained fertility on the next cycle showing no physical problems. Detailed study of the rats revealed increased levels of gamma interferon in the uterus. The neem oil enhanced the local immune response in the uterus.(Mukherjee, 1996) Post coital use of neem oil as birth control does not appear to work by hormonal changes but produces changes in the organs that make pregnancy no longer viable (Tewari, 1989),(Bardham, 1991).

Neem seed oil has also been used as a renewable source for the preparation of polymeric coatings. It has been converted into various polymeric resins, including polyesteramides and polyetheramides. These resins may be utilized further for preparation of polyurethane coatings.

Neem tree

Aquaponics & Mosquitoes - Lesson Learnt

credit to http://www.friendlyaquaponics.com/

from the post : Welcome to “The End of Malaria”

Are you irritated by mosquitoes in your neighborhood? Do you live in a location where malaria, elephantiasis, filariasis, dengue fever, or any of the other dangerous diseases carried by mosquitoes exist? Are you a health-care professional whose concern is these diseases and their control and eradication? If the answers to these questions interest you, please read on:

An additional benefit of farming aquaponically (that we noticed after our first system was operational for six months) was that the mosquitoes on our seven-acre farm had COMPLETELY disappeared! We live in Hawaii, where there are as many mosquitoes as any other tropical area in the world. Although we are fortunate not to have malaria, elephantiasis, filariasis, or any of the other dangerous diseases that are transmitted to humans by mosquitoes, we DO have dengue fever, which can be fatal in the young, elderly, or those with compromised immune systems.

Before we built our first aquaponics system, our farm was like any other place on the green windward coast of the Big Island: even during a drought, when the soil was dusty and dry and there was no standing water visible anywhere, there were still clouds of mosquitoes at dawn and dusk. If we left a door or window open in the house during the day, even for a few minutes, we knew that we would be tormented by the buzzing of hungry mosquitoes all night long as we tried to sleep. When we built our first aquaponics system, we knew we were creating additional habitat for mosquitoes to lay their eggs, so we introduced a few mosquito fish (gambusia affinis), and neon tetras into our system water.

They thrived and spread throughout the systems we built, and soon had become a self-sustaining population numbering in the tens of thousands. Six months later we noticed there were simply no mosquitoes around any longer. It’s easier to notice the presence of a pest than the absence of one, so we’re not certain when the number went to zero, but it was sometime during that six-month period. That was three years ago Since then, we’ve had the pleasure to live on a beautiful farm in the tropics that has NO mosquitoes! How does this work?

We live in the center of a deadly efficient mosquito trap: every female mosquito in the neighborhood can sense the roughly 50,000 gallons of water in our aquaponics systems, and comes to them to lay her eggs. Each egg hatches into a larva, which is then promptly consumed by one of the hundreds of thousands of mosquito fish in our water BEFORE it can ever develop sufficiently to hatch into an adult mosquito. That mosquito’s bequest of future generations is GONE, down the gullets of little fish who thrive on these meals and produce even MORE little fish hungry for mosquito larvae.

We don’t know what the effective radius of our mosquito eradicator is, but we’ve gone to the corners of our seven-acre property and haven’t found any mosquitoes there; we think there’s a good chance it is significantly reducing mosquito populations on the farms around us. We need help and funding to continue research into this phenomenon in order to understand it better, and to develop it to the point where it can easily be implemented in any location or culture.

This could make a huge difference in the lives of people worldwide who currently lose family members to malaria and other mosquito-borne diseases.

  

Preventing an Aquaponic Problem From Happening

credit to AQUAPONIC GARDEN

http://www.aquaponicgardeningguide.com/prevent-an-aquaponic-disaster/

Prevent an Aquaponic Disaster

When someone new is getting into aquaponics, they need to take the time to carefully review and learn about aquaponic system maintenance. They need to learn about the most common issues that cause problems in aquaponic systems and it will help them to be more successful from the start.

One of the most disastrous aquaponic problems that can happen is when you use cold, chlorinated, un-adjusted pH water to top off and fill the system’s reservoir. Using this type of water will stress and kill everything from your fish and plants to even the healthy bacteria living in the system.

When you are “topping-off” the reservoir in the aquaponic system, you can get away with using less than 10% of this type of water. However, using too much will cause aquaponic problems in a very short time and you will need to start salvaging your system all over again.

Many times, people who are topping of their system using a water hose will forget that the water is on and flood their system. By setting a timer it will remind you to shut off the water to avoid this aquaponic problem.

The Options

Always evaluate the situation first.

Figure out what is wrong, ways to fix it and then pick the best option. Using chlorinated water essentially sanitizes your entire aquaponic system and will possibly eliminate all of the gathered plant nutrients.

When using cold, chlorinated, un-adjusted pH water for your system, the most likely state of each of the living elements in your system are as follows:

The Fish

Chlorine is not good for fish and the best case scenario is that they are just really stressed. The temperature level of their water most likely decreased considerably and the pH of the water is most likely changed.

While it is best to not utilize aquarium dechlorinators since they add sodium and other chemicals that can be hazardous to plants and cause aquaponic problems.

You should reduce the amount of chlorine in the system as quickly as possible to recover the fish’s slime coat that keeps them healthy, using a good aquarium water conditioner will do both of these things.

In extreme aquaponic problem cases, many of the fish may be very sickly, or floating in the water.

The Plants

Your plants also are stressed as a result of the temperature and pH changes, in addition to the chlorine that is presenting the water.

If your aquaponic problems are extremely bad then you might have to clean the system, which removes all of the beneficial nutrients from the system. It is strongly recommend that you add some Maxicrop into your system that will feed your plants while the aquaponic system comes back into balance.

If you catch the aquaponic problem before the water has made its way from the fish reservoir into the plants in the system, then quickly shut off the water pump. You will need to treat the fish tank water before you turn the water pump back on and by doing this it will help to minimize aquaponic problems caused to your plants and the bacteria in your system.

The Bacteria

Likely, the healthy bacteria in the aquaponics system have been destroyed and you will need to start all over again by re-cycling your system.

This is the hardest part since you most likely still have fish in your system and if they all didn’t die, you will need to cycle your system using the fish as your ammonia source.

Unless you have another fish tank or aquaponic system that you can transfer them to and do a fish-less cycling.

All will work out, however be sure to watch the ammonia and nitrite levels very carefully. If either starts reaching the high end of the color graph in the API test kit (4 ppm ammonia and 1 ppm nitrites).

After that be sure to do a 1/3 water change out of your system to dilute the levels back down to where your fish will be able to tolerate to avoid further aquaponic problems.

The Worms

You can assume that they have actually been eliminated by the chlorine and that you should add more worms to your grow beds once you have adjusted the water.

The bottom line is that one disruptive aquaponic problem can reset your system back to when you first started. You may lose a few fish, your plants could stress out and yellow for a few days or weeks, but you will certainly recuperate from the aquaponic problems.

Learn From Another’s Experiences…

The best way to prevent these aquaponic problems is to use a separate water tank to off-gas the chlorine, adjust the pH and water temperature before transferring the water into your aquaponic system.

By doing this additional step, you will save time and heartache from an aquaponic problems turning into a disaster then having to start all over again.

And just think, you will most likely never make these mistakes again or by reviewing this article, you will prevent this aquaponic problem from ever happening!

  

Aquaponics' Applications [1]

Educational Applications of Aquaponics

credit to Nelson Pade website

Aquaponics and hydroponics are both excellent means of demonstrating many principles of science, agriculture, math and business in all grade levels and for home schooling. Applications of these technologies are only limited by ones imagination.

A unit in hydroponics or aquaponics enforces practical uses of chemistry, mathematics, physics, economics and engineering. The monitoring and care of a hydroponic or aquaponic system by students helps instill a sense of responsibility, inspires creativity and creates excitement in the learning environment.

A small aquaponic garden can sit on a counter top and be used to demonstrate botany, horticulture, hydroponics (soil less plant culture), plant science, nutrition, physiology and care, nutrient and pH testing, pH relationships, plant usage of nutrients, seed germination, photosynthesis and light and plant development.

An aquaponic system combines hydroponics with aquaculture in a recirculating system. In addition to the plant sciences, aquaponics incorporates and demonstrates many of natures natural cycles, nitrification, biology, fish anatomy and nutrition and high-tech agriculture.

A unit in hydroponics or aquaponics can be started at the beginning of a semester and run through the entire semester, allowing the educator to present the individual concepts and lessons as the plants and fish develop and grow. A small hydroponic or aquaponic system can sit on a spare counter top. Larger systems can be placed on the floor of a classroom, in a windowsill or a greenhouse.
  

Different Types of Aquaponics Systems

There are three different types of aquaponics systems that have been developed for use by home gardeners and commercial enterprises. These are media based, NFT and Deep Flow or Raft systems and here is a description of each one.

Media-based: also known as the gravel bed system, the media-based aquaponics system is the simplest type to set up and can be used on a small or large scale. This is why it is the type most commonly used by backyard aquaponics enthusiasts. Containers are filled with small rocks, usually expanded clay pebbles which are porous to absorb water and air, and then seedlings are planted directly into these. Water from the fish tank is circulated through the container to allow the plants to access the nutrients. The rocks act as a biological filter as well as a solids filter, eliminating the need for extra equipment.

You can also use special netted growing pots for your seeds or seedlings. You fill these with perlite, coir, peat moss or the clay pebbles and plant into them. These pots are then placed into a larger container which has been filled with the expanding clay pebbles, making sure the netted sides are covered by the media. Media-based aquaponics systems hold plants firmly and so are ideal for growing fruiting plants.

There are two different ways this type of aquaponics system can be operated. The first method pumps a continuous flow of water through the media bed from the fish tank and back into the tank. The second is a process called flood and drain or ebb and flow, where water is pumped into the bed to a depth of about 10 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cms) and then drained away. A timer controls the flooding and draining sequence.

NFT system: or Nutrient Film Technique is a common method used in hydroponics that is best suited to a large-scale aquaponics production. This is because of the expense of setting up the system of PVC pipes and mechanical filtration needed to operate the system. Because there is not the surface area exposed to the air, as in the media-based system, a biological filter is needed to allow the beneficial bacteria to develop and convert the fish wastes into plant nutrients. Solids filtration is also needed to deal with the solids in the fish waste; this is usually set up in a separate tank through which the water passes before going through the plant pipes.

In the NFT system, plants are held in netted growing pots which are suspended through holes cut in the pipe. A thin film of nutrient-rich water is run along the bottom of enclosed gutters so that the roots can reach it. It is really only suited to plants that have a small root systems, such as leafy green vegetables.

Deep Flow: also called Deep Water Culture (DWC) or the Raft system, this is another commonly-used method in hydroponics. This system involves the use of a foam ‘raft’ that floats on top of the water. It is a popular choice for both commercial and backyard aquaponics because it is relatively cheap to set up and operate.

A container or channel is used to hold the water as it is pumped through from the fish tank, after it has been filtered to remove any solid waste. Plants are held in holes made in the raft, so their roots dangle down into the water. This method uses high volumes of water which provides stable water temperatures for the plants and fish. It is the method most often used in commercial aquaponics operations because of the ease with which the plants can be tended and harvested. Again, it is better suited to growing herbs and leafy green vegetables than plants with bigger root systems and fruiting varieties.

This type of system can easily be adapted for home garden use by simply floating a styrofoam tray on top of a fish tank. Just cut holes in the tray and suspend the plants, or plants in netting pots, through the holes so the roots are in contact with the water. Choose fish varieties that are not voracious plant eaters to avoid having plants’ roots eaten away.

Now that you understand how each of the 3 types of aquaponics systems operates, you will be in a better position to decide which one suits you the best. Whichever method you choose, it is best to start small so you can gradually build your expertise and experience before setting up a large system.